Discover La Morra

La Morra is a village of 2,668 people on 24.3 km² at 513 metres, and it has the view. From the terrace at the top of the village the whole Barolo amphitheatre is laid out below — Barolo itself three hundred metres lower, the ridges of Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga beyond it, and the vineyards running up to the walls of the village you are standing in.

That is the reason to come, and it is a real one. The hills here were inscribed by UNESCO on 22 June 2014 as the Langa of Barolo, one of three Langhe components of the Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont, and La Morra is the place from which you can see what was inscribed.

The village is also a serious wine commune in its own right. Part of La Morra lies inside the Barolo appellation — the wine must be 100% Nebbiolo, aged at least 36 months with at least 18 in wood — and the Cantina Comunale in the village lets you taste across local producers before choosing a cellar. There is one detail that tells you how seriously this is taken: historically, it was illegal in La Morra to cut down a Nebbiolo vine, and the penalties were severe.

The other thing to see is a mile outside the village and completely unexpected. The Cappella del Barolo at Brunate was built in 1914 by vineyard workers as a shelter from storms, was never consecrated, and in 1999 was repainted inside and out by Sol LeWitt and David Tremlett. It is now one of the most photographed buildings in Piedmont, and it is a conceptual artwork standing in a vineyard.

Why come to La Morra rather than Barolo?

For the view, which is the best in the Langhe. From the terrace at 513 metres you see the entire Barolo amphitheatre at once — the landscape UNESCO inscribed on 22 June 2014. Barolo, three hundred metres below, has the castle and the wine museum but not the panorama. Do both: they are ten minutes apart.

What is the painted chapel?

The Cappella del Barolo at Brunate. Built in 1914 by farm workers as a shelter from storms while working the vineyards, never consecrated, bought by the Ceretto family with the surrounding land in 1970, and in 1999 repainted by Sol LeWitt outside and David Tremlett inside. It is free to see from outside and is a few minutes from the village on a farm track.

How long is the Barolo wine trail?

We do not say, and that is deliberate. The municipality names the Sentiero del Barolo on its own site but publishes no distance for it, and the figure that circulates elsewhere could not be verified against any reachable source. Ask in the village, where they will also tell you the current condition of the route.

Where should I taste?

Start at the Cantina Comunale in the village, which pours across local producers in one room. Work out what you like, then arrange to visit that estate. It is cheaper than guessing from labels and the money stays in the village.

Can I walk to Barolo?

Yes, on the Sentiero del Barolo through the vineyards — and it is the best day out in the zone, because walking one way and eating at the far end solves the driving problem entirely. Stay on the tracks; the rows are private and worked.

Is it hard going?

Harder than the other villages here. La Morra is at 513 metres with sloping, partly stepped streets and the terrace at the top of the climb. If someone in your party cannot manage a hill, Alba — flat, at 172 metres — is the one to choose in this region.

When is the view best?

Early morning or late afternoon, and ideally late May to June for green vines and long light, or October to February on a still morning when the fog fills the valleys and you are above it. Midday in summer haze is the worst time.

Is it true you could not cut down a vine here?

Yes — historically it was illegal in La Morra to cut down a Nebbiolo vine, and the penalties were severe. The sources do not date the prohibition, but it is the sharpest illustration of how this village regards its grape.