Practical Information for visiting Yemen

Bring all the cash you need in US dollars. There are no working international cards, no usable ATMs for foreign accounts, and no way to transfer money in. This is absolute rather than a matter of inconvenience.

The Yemeni rial has collapsed and, unusually, has effectively split into two currencies trading at very different rates in areas under different authorities. Quoting prices in rials is close to meaningless for planning; visitors transact in dollars.

Bring clean, undamaged notes; torn or marked bills are refused. Small denominations are useful for tips and local purchases.

On Socotra, the tour price typically covers almost everything; carry extra dollars for guides, crafts, honey and contingencies.

Tipping matters a great deal here given the economic situation, and guides, drivers and cooks should be tipped well.

Connectivity is poor and unreliable throughout the country. War damage, fuel shortages for generators and deliberate restriction have all affected the networks.

On Socotra, expect very little. There is limited mobile signal around Hadibo, the main town, and effectively none across most of the island, which is where you will be. Satellite phones are how operators stay in contact and are subject to permission.

Power is generator-based and intermittent, often a few hours in the evening. Bring several large power banks and a solar charger if you can; charging opportunities during a camping tour are minimal.

Foreign roaming generally does not work. Local SIMs have limited use outside towns.

Tell people at home in advance that you will be out of contact for the duration, and agree what that means.

Effectively every government advises against all travel to Yemen, and many state explicitly that they cannot provide consular assistance there. Ordinary travel insurance will not cover a trip against such advice.

• Armed conflict has continued since 2014 with shifting front lines. The country is divided between rival authorities, and the humanitarian situation is among the worst in the world.
• Kidnapping of foreigners for ransom or political leverage is a serious and documented risk on the mainland, carried out by tribal groups and by armed organisations.
• Landmines and unexploded ordnance contaminate large areas, including farmland and roadsides.
• Airstrikes and shelling have affected cities and infrastructure including airports and ports.
• Socotra has largely been spared the fighting and is the one area some travel continues to, but it sits within the same country, has no consular presence, no hospital capable of serious treatment, and a flight link that can stop.
• Maritime piracy is a risk in the surrounding waters.

The health system has collapsed. Most facilities are not fully functioning, staff are unpaid, and medicines and fuel are short. Yemen has had major cholera outbreaks — among the largest recorded anywhere — along with measles, diphtheria and widespread malnutrition.

On Socotra there is no hospital capable of treating a serious injury or illness, and evacuation depends on a flight that runs infrequently and stops entirely during the monsoon. This is the single most important practical fact about visiting.

Insurance covering Yemen is very hard to obtain and standard policies exclude it. Specialist cover with medical evacuation is essential, and evacuation may still be impossible.

Vaccinations: routine cover fully current, plus hepatitis A and B, typhoid, rabies, cholera and polio. Consult a travel clinic well in advance.

Malaria is present in the coastal lowlands and on Socotra; take prophylaxis and use repellent and nets. Dengue occurs.

Water: treat everything as unsafe. Bring a filter as well as purification tablets, and carry a comprehensive medical kit.

Dress conservatively and completely. Yemen is among the most conservative countries in the region. Women should wear loose clothing covering arms and legs and a headscarf, and on the mainland an abaya; men should wear long trousers and sleeved shirts. This is not a formality.

Never photograph women under any circumstances, and ask before photographing any person. Do not photograph military, checkpoints, ports or government buildings.

Alcohol is illegal and unavailable. Do not attempt to bring any.

Ramadan: no eating, drinking or smoking in public during daylight.

Right hand for eating, giving and receiving. Remove shoes entering a home or mosque; mosques are generally closed to non-Muslims.

Qat sessions may be offered. Declining politely is fine.

Politics: do not discuss the war, and understand that a conversation can put a Yemeni at risk rather than you.

Public affection is unacceptable; homosexuality carries severe penalties.

There is no emergency service a visitor can rely on. That is the honest position, and any plan should start from it.

Consular assistance is unavailable. Western embassies in Sanaa have been closed for years and most governments state plainly that they cannot help citizens in Yemen, including with evacuation. Establish before travelling which mission nominally covers you — usually one in Riyadh, Muscat or Amman — and accept that it may be able to do nothing.

Your operator is your emergency plan. On Socotra, the tour company, its satellite phone and its relationship with the authorities are the entire chain. Choose one with a real track record, and confirm what their evacuation arrangement actually is before you commit.

Register with your foreign ministry if it offers the service, leave a full itinerary and passport copies with someone at home, and agree a check-in schedule and what to do if you miss it.

Carry a comprehensive medical kit and the knowledge to use it.