How to get around Nemi

Nemi is small enough to walk and steep enough to make that count.

It lies about 30 kilometres south-east of Rome and 6 kilometres north-west of Velletri, in the Alban Hills, and is reached by road through the Castelli Romani.

The village itself sits at 521 metres on the crater rim and is walked in minutes — it is the second smallest comune in the Castelli Romani, at 7.31 square kilometres.

Getting down to the lake is the real movement. The historic centre looks down on the water from a panoramic position, and the shore — where the Temple of Diana Nemorensis stood, and where the Museo delle Navi Romane is — is a descent below the town.

Around the rim, the comune's boundaries enclose the whole crater, so a circuit of the lake stays within one municipality.

Two Italian rules apply here as everywhere in the country. A ticket bought from a kiosk or machine must be validated on board before the journey starts, or an inspector will issue an on-the-spot fine. And driving into a historic centre usually needs a ZTL pass, with the boundary marked in black on a yellow sign.

From Rome. About 30 kilometres south-east, by road through the Castelli Romani.

From Velletri. 6 kilometres south-east of Nemi — the nearest larger town.

In the village. At 521 metres on the crater rim, and tiny: 7.31 square kilometres in total, the second smallest comune in the Castelli Romani.

Down to the lake. A descent from the rim to the northern shore, where the temple site and the Museo delle Navi Romane are.

Around the crater. The comune's boundaries embrace the entire crater, so the rim circuit stays in one municipality.

Onward. The rest of the Castelli Romani — Castel Gandolfo on Lake Albano, Frascati, Velletri — are a short drive.

Mobility note. The village is compact but perched; the drop between rim and shore is the demanding part of any visit.

Validate your ticket. If you buy a ticket from a kiosk or machine, you must validate it on public transport before you start your journey. Officials patrol and issue an on-the-spot fine if your ticket is not validated.

ZTL. You need a pass to drive into the historic centre of many Italian towns in a private or hire car. The boundaries are marked with the letters ZTL in black on a yellow sign, and a camera reads your plate.

Strikes. Transport strikes in Italy are often called at short notice, which matters most if your visit depends on a single connection.

Taxis. Use only officially licensed taxis, which carry a taxi sign on the roof and a company name and number on the side.