Practical Information for visiting Albania

The currency is the Albanian lek (ALL). Prices are sometimes quoted in old lek, worth a tenth of the current unit, which survives in speech — if a price sounds ten times too high, that is why. Confirm which is meant.

Albania is largely a cash economy. Cards are accepted in Tirana hotels, supermarkets and some restaurants, and much less elsewhere. Guesthouses, furgons, markets and most rural businesses want cash.

ATMs are common in the towns and scarce in the mountains; draw before going north. Exchange offices give better rates than banks and are everywhere in Tirana; euros are accepted informally in tourist areas, usually at a poor rate.

Tipping is appreciated rather than expected: rounding up, or five to ten per cent for good service in a restaurant.

Coverage for mobile networks is good across the populated areas, with 4G in the cities and along the main roads from Vodafone and One. The northern mountains and the deeper valleys have genuine gaps — Theth and parts of the Valbonë route have little or none.

Albania is not in the European Union, so EU roaming rules do not apply, though several operators have included it voluntarily in recent years — check before relying on it. Local prepaid SIMs are very cheap and sold everywhere.

Wi-Fi is widespread and free in cafes, restaurants and guesthouses, and Albanians expect it — the cafe culture runs on it. Speeds in Tirana are good.

Download offline maps before heading into the mountains, where both signal and signage run out.

Albania is a safe country for visitors, with low violent crime and a reputation abroad that is considerably worse than the reality. Most problems are practical rather than criminal.

• Driving is the genuine hazard. Albania has among the higher road fatality rates in Europe: assertive overtaking, unlit vehicles, livestock on rural roads, and poor surfaces in the mountains. Avoid driving at night outside the cities.
• Mountain walking. The Theth–Valbonë route is well travelled but exposed in places, weather turns fast, and rescue is limited. Go in season, start early, and do not attempt it in poor conditions.
• Petty theft in Tirana and on the coast in summer; standard precautions are enough.
• Unexploded ordnance remains in a few remote former military areas near the borders. Stay on paths and do not enter abandoned installations.
• Swimming. Beaches are largely unpatrolled and some Ionian coves have currents and sudden depth.
• Stray dogs are common in towns and around rural villages; sheepdogs guarding flocks in the mountains take their work seriously.

Public healthcare is under-resourced and the standard varies considerably. Private clinics and hospitals in Tirana — the American Hospital and Hygeia among them — are the realistic option for anything serious, and complex cases are often referred abroad, usually to Italy or Greece. Insurance with evacuation cover is worth having.

Vaccinations: routine cover plus hepatitis A. Tick-borne encephalitis is worth considering for extended time in forest and mountain areas, and ticks are present from spring to autumn.

Water. Tap water is treated in the cities and generally considered safe, but most people including Albanians drink bottled, and it is the sensible default in rural areas.

Summer heat on the coast, and strong sun — the UV index is high from June to September.

Rabies is a small risk given the stray dog population; any bite needs prompt medical attention.

Pharmacies are widespread and well stocked, and pharmacists often speak Italian or English. Bring any specific prescription medication with you.

The head gesture is inverted. A nod means no, a shake means yes. This is the single most useful thing to know before arriving.

Accept the coffee. Hospitality is offered constantly and refusing outright is awkward. If someone insists on paying, let them, and reciprocate later.

Raki will be offered, often homemade and often early in the day. A small glass and a toast is the polite minimum; declining entirely is accepted if you explain.

Dress is relaxed, though mosques require covered shoulders and knees and a headscarf for women, and shoes off.

Politics and history. Kosovo, the dictatorship and relations with Greece and Serbia are all live subjects; Albanians discuss them openly, and listening serves better than contributing.

Photography. Ask before photographing people, particularly older people in rural areas. Military installations remain sensitive.

Emergency numbers: 112 works for everything. Separately, 129 is police, 127 is ambulance and 128 is fire. English is not guaranteed on the older numbers; 112 is better staffed.

Medical. The main public hospital is the Mother Teresa University Hospital in Tirana; the private American Hospital group is the usual choice for foreign patients and expects payment or an insurance guarantee up front.

Mountain rescue is limited and largely volunteer. In the north, guesthouse owners and local guides are the effective first response; tell someone your route before walking, and carry a means of calling for help.

Road assistance. Hire car companies provide their own; outside the main roads, recovery can take hours.

Keep an offline copy of your passport and insurance. Most embassies are in central Tirana, in the Blloku area and around Rruga e Elbasanit.